Bite Club

Bite Club tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2008-09-17:/biteclub//1 2009-11-08T20:29:29Z Anonymous? No way. Pretentious? Please. Bite Club foists a fork at everything from farm markets to four-star restaurants; taco trucks to top chefs, getting to the oooey, gooey creamy center in no-time flat. Movable Type Pro 4.21-en Worst Thanksgiving Disaster? tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.3843 2009-11-08T20:28:06Z 2009-11-08T20:29:29Z

From frozen-in-the-middle turkey to the family dog eating the pie, we've all had no-so-spectacular moments in the Thanksgiving annals. Tell me yours and you could win two tickets to Kendall Jackson Chef Justin Wangler's Thanksgiving how-to November 14 at the...

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2
Tell me yours and you could win two tickets to Kendall Jackson Chef Justin Wangler's Thanksgiving how-to November 14 at the winery. Recently featured in an 8-page spread in Better Homes and Gardens, the winery chef shoes you how to do an approachable do-ahead feast that will leave you time to socialize. Or at least keep an eye on the dog.
]]> Whoopie Pies tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1873 2009-03-23T17:52:07Z 2009-03-23T18:38:55Z

Move over cupcakes. The darling of the pastry-set these days are Whoopie Pies, a less precious, more lunchbox-friendly marriage of cake and cream.

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Move over cupcakes. The darling of the pastry-set these days are Whoopie Pies, a less precious, more lunchbox-friendly marriage of cake and cream.

Last week, the New York Times broadcast the trend that purports to have its roots either in Pennsylvania's Amish Country (well known for tasty fare that can hold you through a barn-raising) or New England. No one is really sure.

The currant appeal is clearly the pie's working-class roots. Some say the name stems from the exclamation of "Whoopie!" from happy farmers who found the cream sandwiches in their lunches. Nor'easterners are also familiar with these mushy, smushy, delicious cookies stocked in corner delis and gas stations as comforting snack fare. There's also the nostalgia factor as anyone who had (or wished they had) a Little Debbie Oatmeal cream cookie stashed into their brown bag can remember.

As the Whoopie comes into its own, clever pastry chefs are leaving behind simple chocolate or vanilla cake and Crisco filling for flavors like pumpkin and fresh buttercream fillings. Kind of like what we've seen happen to cupcakes (for the better, of course).

So delight in the dunkable, dippable, finger-licking wonderful pleasures of childhood once more. You trend-setter, you.

And if you're wondering, yes, the Whoopie is a close relation of the Southern Moon Pie -- made with graham crackers and marshmallow, then covered with chocolate. Albeit a slightly simpler cousin.

Available locally at Oliver's Market in Santa Rosa.

Know where else to get a good Whoopie? Let BiteClubbers know!

]]> Artisan Cheese Festival tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1813 2009-03-18T21:15:33Z 2009-03-18T21:38:04Z

Artisan cheese festival 2009

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Aging like a fine cheddar, Petaluma's Artisan Cheese Festival turns three this year, adding even more depth and flavor to the four-day festival of dairy deliciousness.

The annual gathering draws artisan fromagers Northern California and Oregon and their fans for a weekend of non-stop chatting and chewing about the wonders hand-crafted cheese. Which is actually pretty fascinating (and reaaaally fragrant), considering that the North Coast is where some of the country's best cheese is being made these days.

Tickets are all but sold out, though a handful remain if you're just dying to get your slice on. You can also participate a la carte, heading to one of several area restaurants hosting cheesemaker dinners on Friday night or mingling around Sunday's Artisan Cheese Marketplace (advance tickets are recommended, or you can just take your chances and show up).

BiteClub will be there for the duration, first cut to final slice, so stay tuned for updates. Meanwhile, if you're inclined to participate, here's how the weekend rolls. Get your knife and crackers ready...

- Friday Night Dine Around: Zazu, Syrah, Zin, Restaurant Eloise, Della Fattoria, Cucina Paradiso and Central Market will all host special cheese-centric dinners in honor of the festival on Friday night only. Click here for the list, as well as how to make a reservation.

- Saturday: Seminar central. Some top picks include; Strong Cheese and Stout Brews with cheese gal Sheana Davis; Traveling the Oregon Cheese Trail with David Gremmels of Rogue Creamery; the New Artisan Food Landscape with Steve Sando (Rancho Gordo), Taylor Boetticher of Fatted Calf and a host of others. More info on the seminars.

- Artisan Gala dinner with John Ash, Duskie Estes (Zazu), Josh Silvers (Syrah) and others. Buy Tickets ($170).

- Sunday: Artisan Cheese Marketplace. Eat. Drink. Eat. A wonderland for food lovers.

- Monday: Creamery Field Trips. Head out to meet up with the folks who make cheese.

JUST THE FACTS:
When: March 20-23 2009
Where: Sheraton Sonoma County Petaluma, 745 Baywood Drive, (707) 283-2888

Need to do a little pre-cheese homework?
Culture Magazine is the skin mag for cheese-philes: Informative articles and glossy close-ups that'll have you licking the pages. Alone. At night. More info: culturecheesemag.com/

Clark Wolf's American Cheeses
I've been woefully behind in talking about this amazing book by SoCo's own Clark Wolf. A funny and fascinating storyteller who's got the chops to know what he's talking about, Wolf weaves together stories of his own life along with vignettes about the cheesemakers from coast to coast. Definite required reading. Can I grow up to be you, Clark? Find out more.

]]> Corned Beef tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1797 2009-03-16T09:05:08Z 2009-03-16T09:23:09Z

Best corned beef

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Despite my Irish(ish) heritage, the annual St. Patrick's Day corned beef adventure is one that I have, so far, avoided at all costs. Like a lot of other folks, wearing green, imbibing in stout beer and Irish coffee is about as Mac-involved as I really care to be. The Irish, let's face it, aren't usually known for their culinary prowess and if we're being honest here, boiling meat within an inch of its life is not my idea of good eats.

Quaint and authentic yes. Delish? Not usually. Just pass the scones and oatmeal and we'll call it good.

But here's the thing: Corned beef is a uniquely American food steeped in history (along with pickling spices, but more on that later). It's the culinary match that could only be made in New York, the lovechild of Jewish immigrants' plentiful kosher beef brisket and Irish immigrants' love of salty, boiled meats. Throw in a little cabbage, some pickling spices and potatoes and what we think of as Boiled Dinner (or Corned Beef and Cabbage) was born. In fact, so American was this invention that Abraham Lincoln served it as his inauguration and millions still consume it as a right of spring.*

So, how to do it right?

]]> The important issue is getting a good cut of meat -- one that's minimally processed and ideally hasn't been dunked in too many odd chemicals, among them, sodium nitrate (also known as saltpeter). Most pre-packaged corned beef includes this controversial preservative (as do many other preserved meats like salami, hot dogs, etc.) that some say can lead to cancer in large amounts. I wouldn't get too concerned about a single serving of corned beef once a year, but better butchers do it without the stuff -- notably Pacific Market. What you're paying for is the quality of meat and the handling. I tend to lean toward a small cut of the good stuff. It also makes for a less intensely salty piece of meat.

Typically, corned beef is brisket, a cut of beef from the chest area that does well with long-cooking times. It can also be from the "round" of beef, which is closer to the hind end and tends to be leaner and hold together better.

The "corning" in corned beef has nothing to do with corn, but with the style of preserving the meat. Originally the beef was treated with "corns" of salt, though today most start with a salt brine then add a pickling mixture that includes herbs like cinnamon, mustard seed, bay leaves, allspice, dill seed, cloves, ginger, peppercorns, coriander, juniper berries, mace, or cardamom.

The most traditional way to cook corned beef is to boil it for three or so hours in water. It keeps the meat moist and tender, but doesn't infuse a ton of flavor into the meat. Slow cookers are also popular, and in one recipe I tested, you can get a different flavor from using apple juice or beer rather than water to cook the meat. Least traditional is braising, or long-cooking the meat in the oven, which can dry out the meat.

Here are some recipes BiteClub tried...

- Traditional boiled corned beef from Epicurious

- Apple and Brown Sugar Slow cooked corned beef

- Beer braised corned beef

The meats:

- Pacific market house corned beef ($4.99 pound)

- Olivers' Harris Ranch corned beef (2.99 pound)

- Safeway: Shenson Corned Beef ($2.99 pound)

- Whole Foods corned beef round ($4.99 pound)

The results:

- The boiled meats were clearly the most juicy and tender, with the Pacific Market corned beef taking the prize for taste and color -- bright red inside. I recommend this method as the most fool-proof. The slow-cooked cornbeef in vinegar, using the round was tough and dry. The braised corned beef, though it perfumed the house and promised to be amazing, was a rubbery disaster that was inedible. I blame the cook.

++++++++

What makes corned beef different from pastrami? It's the smoke. Pastrami is just corned beef that's taken a trip through the smoker.

* A little history lesson: A boiled bacon joint was more traditional fare for the Irish, but less easy to find in 1800's New York. So those clever Irish immigrants used what was available -- beef brisket -- instead.

And don't forget the sauce! What saves a ho-hum corned beef dinner from disaster is a good sauce. Stir horseradish into sour cream for a creamy horseradish sauce or try this adapted recipe for mustard sauce.

Mustard Cream Sauce

1½ tablespoons butter

½ cup brown sugar firmly packed

¼ cup prepared mustard

? teaspoon pepper

1 egg

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup heavy cream

Melt butter in small saucepan. Remove from heat, set aside to cool. In small bowl, with rotary beater, beat egg, sugars, mustard, salt, and pepper untill well combined. Beat in vinegar, stir mixture into cooled butter, mix well. Over medium heat, bring to boiling, stirring. Reduce heat; simmer 3 minutes. Serve hot.

]]> First Look: Rendez Vous Bistro tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1814 2009-03-14T21:41:25Z 2009-03-18T21:45:59Z

Rendez Vous Bistro

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2 Eager eaters are already packing downtown SR's newest French bistro, chomping to see what former Emile's Creekside chef Emile Waldteufel has up his sleeve. After an extensive overhaul, it's an amazing space dominated by a large wood bar and a sunny Left Bank vibe.The menu is tres Parisian fare: from onion soup and escargot to Steak Frites, Sole Meuniere and Boeuf Bourginon.

But stakes are high in this crowded field which includes contenders like K&L Bistro, Chloe's, Mirepoix and nearby Bistro 29 which have already proven their mettle. At first blush there's still some translation getting lost -- ho-hum frites, crackle-free creme brulee and some so-so sauces.

The good news: Service is spot-on, the location is great and with a bit of menu tightening, Rendez-Vous could end up a downtown classic, especially for late-nighters (they'll be open until midnight). The restaurant will open for morning croissants and coffee, along with a full lunch menu starting next week. 614 4th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 526-7700.

]]> Santi coming to Santa Rosa tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1787 2009-03-13T16:24:01Z 2009-03-13T16:37:46Z

Santi moving to SR, Odyssey goes BBQ, Crepes safe at Bistro 29

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Santi coming to Santa Rosa
BiteClub got it straight from Santi owner Doug Swett that a lease is in the works for the Geyserville Restaurant to move lock, stock and barrel to Fountaingrove Village next fall. The popular Italian trattoria will neighbor Traverso's, leaving behind it's casual pizzeria sibling, Diavola, up north. Swett plans to keep his regional Italian menu and chef, Liza Hinman, but is looking forward to daily lunches and later nights at the new location on Stagecoach Road.

Smokin' in Windsor
Chef Rudy Mihal of Odyssey Restaurant is thinking ribs and brisket. While working for Chef Daniel Boulud a few years ago, Mihal tells BiteClub that he used to spend his off days working with an old Southern BBQ maestro. He's bringing that 'q' love to his Windsor restaurant, smoking up pulled pork and braised greens while keeping many of his menu classics. A new project in the works? "I'm just doing the stuff I love for possible future endeavors." 426 Emily Rose Cir., Windsor, (707) 836-7600.

Bistro 29 changing owners?
When "Change of Ownership" sign went up last week, BiteClub called to find out what's up with the year-old French Bistro in downtown Santa Rosa. Never fear, your buckwheat crepes are safe. Chef Brian says all is well and that he and his wife are merely becoming a corporation, hence the public notice. The couple are continuing their 3-course dinners for $29. 620 5th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 546-2929. ]]> Whiskey A Go-Go tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1783 2009-03-12T06:46:45Z 2009-03-12T06:59:00Z

Love whiskey? Even know what whiskey is (and isn't)? A primer on this ancient drink and where to get it.

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Tell me what you drink and I'll tell you what you are -- or at least what you think you are, to rip off the sentiments of Brilliant Savarin. And though we may drink for the very purpose of forgetting, at least for a few hours what we are, our spirits of choice are like a loudspeaker to the soul.

Take whiskey, if you dare. At its core, this ancient mash is little more than distilled beer. The very essence of humble grains, whiskey (or Bourbon or Scotch as it's also known), is the beverage of fathers, uncles and tweedy English professors. Not the Junior League.

Which may be exactly why it holds such a fascination. Anything but the sweet and syrupy-sippers so easily tippled from a martini glass, whiskies are is contemplative beverages that require a bit of reflection to enjoy properly. Properly. Guzzling it backstage is an entirely different beast.

Serious whiskey drinkers appreciate their beverage on the rocks (with ice) or with a slight dillution of water to release their aroma and, well, not leave you choking on the fumes. With proofs ranging from 80 to 110 (and more), it's a prudent way to enjoy.

But aside from Jack and Cokes, most of us aren't real clear on exactly what we're drinking.

]]> So, a little background. Whiskey has a number of branches in its family tree. At the core is a distilled spirit usually made from fermented barley and stored in oak barrels for several years. Scotland's earthy, peat-smoked malted Scotches are aged for between three and 30 years and among the most coveted of whiskeys. Irish Whiskeys are typically lighter, having been distilled at least three times before bottling. Other countries that produce distinct nationalistic whiskeys include Canada, Wales and, oddly enough, Japan.

Now things get complicated: Bourbon. All Bourbons are whiskey, but not all whiskeys are Bourbon. To put it simply, Bourbon is a type of American whiskey. Made with at least 51% corn and aged in charred, new oak barrels (giving it a distinct flavor profile), all but a few Bourbons come from Kentucky. Kentucky=Bourbon.

Rye, like the bread, is made with exactly that -- rye grains. It's a more intense, funky cousin that's oft-overlooked but a key ingredient to one of the oldest and best cocktails known to man, The Sazerac (see recipe below), as well as the Manhattan.

And then there's Tennessee whiskey. Otherwise known as your old pal Jack Daniels -- as American as Harley Davidson and hot dogs and Coca Cola (all of which it goes well with). Jack is filtered through sugar-maple charcoal, giving it a sweet, caramel quality.

A couple other things to know. Though it can be painstaking to make, whiskey still doesn't have the cache of other spirits and therefore the pricetag. A serious bottle typically won't cost you more than $35-$50 though some rare aged blends can run into the stratosphere ($400 to $38,000).

Thirsty yet? Jack & Tony's Whiskey Bar (115 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707.526.4347) offers an extensive selection of rare (and not so rare) whiskeys from around the world and blends a mean Sazerac. Have Jack bend your ear about how he wrangled one of only 11 cases of Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey in the US.

DIY: Here's a simple guide to what you're sipping. (See a more complete list)

Everyday Whiskies

Jim Beam: Bourbon

Jack Daniels: Tennessee Whiskey

Jameson: Irish Whiskey

Bushmills: Irish Whiskey

Canadian Club: Canadian Whiskey

Maker's Mark: Bourbon

Top Shelf:

Suntory: Japanese Whiskey

Knappogue Castle: Irish Whiskey

Sazerac Rye: Rye

Bruichladdich: Scotch

Lagavulin: Scotch

Penderyn: Welsh Whiskey

Russell's Reserve: Bourbon

Glenlivet: Scotch

+++++++++++++++++++++

Sazerac

This is considered the first American cocktail, created in pre-Civil War New Orleans.

1 1/2 oz. Rye Whiskey

3 dashes Peychaud's Bitters

A splash of simple syrup

1/4 oz. Absinthe

Lemon peel

In a shaker with ice, mix syrup, bitters, rye and Absinthe. Gently swirl, rather than shaking mixture. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass rimmed with lemon.

Commander's Palace Bread Pudding Souffle with Whiskey Sauce

BREAD PUDDING

3/4 cups Sugar

1 tsp. Ground Cinnamon

Pinch of Nutmeg

3 Medium Eggs

1 cup Heavy Cream

1 tsp. Vanilla

5 cups New Orleans French Bread, 1" cubed (see note)

1/3 cup Raisins

WHISKEY SAUCE

1 cup Heavy Cream

1/2 Tbsp. Corn Starch

1 Tbsp. Water

3 Tbsp. Sugar

1/4 cup Bourbon

MERINGUE

9 Medium Egg Whites

3/4 cups Sugar

1/4 tsp. Cream of Tartar

To make the bread pudding, first preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 8" square baking pan. Combine sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Beat in the eggs until smooth, then work in the heavy cream. Add the vanilla, then the bread cubes. Allow bread to soak up custard.

Place the raisins in a greased pan. Top with the egg mixture, which prevents the raisins from burning. Bake for approximately 25-30 minutes or until the pudding has a golden brown color and is firm to the touch. If a toothpick inserted in the pudding comes out clean, it is done. The mixture of pudding should be nice and moist, not runny or dry. Cool to room temperature.

To make the whiskey sauce, place the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat, and bring to a boil. Whisk corn starch and water together, and add to cream while whisking. Bring to a boil. Whisk and let simmer for a few seconds, taking care not to burn the mixture on the bottom. Remove from heat.

Stir in the sugar and the bourbon. Taste to make sure the sauce has a thick consistency, a sufficiently sweet taste, and a good bourbon flavor. Cool to room temperature.

To make the meringue, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter six 6 ounce ramekins. First, be certain that the bowl and whisk are clean. The egg whites should be completely free of yolk, and they will whip better if the chill is off them. This dish needs a good, stiff meringue. In a large bowl or mixer, whip egg whites and cream of tartar until foamy. Add the sugar gradually, and continue whipping until shiny and thick. Test with a clean spoon. If the whites stand up stiff, like shaving cream, when you pull out the spoon, the meringue is ready. Do not overwhip, or the whites will break down and the soufflé will not work.

In a large bowl, break half the bread pudding into pieces using your hands or a spoon. Gently fold in one-quarter of the meringue, being careful not to lose the air in the whites. Add a portion of this base to each of the ramekins.

Place the remaining bread pudding in the bowl, break into pieces, and carefully fold in the rest of the meringue. Top off the soufflés with this lighter mixture, to about 1 1/2 inches. Smooth and shape tops with spoon into a dome over the ramekin rim. Bake immediately for approximately 20 minutes or until golden brown. Serve immediately. Using a spoon, poke a hole in the top of each soufflé, at the table, and pour the room temperature whiskey sauce inside the soufflé.

Note: New Orleans French bread is very light and tender. If substitute bread is used that is too dense, it will soak up all the custard and the recipe will not work.

]]> El Puente Cantina tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1774 2009-03-11T00:08:42Z 2009-03-11T00:11:20Z

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Number 42 on my ongoing must-eat list: birria, a Mexican meat stew usually made with lamb or goat. Along with pozole and menudo, it's one-dish comfort food that attracts the same kind of dedicated followers you find face-first in a bowl of pho or homemade chicken noodle soup.

One of a handful of restaurants that reliably serve up this homey standard, along with an impressive list of cantina classics, is the unfortunately-located El Puente Cantina on Santa Rosa Ave. Backed by a freeway off-ramp and wedged next to Denny's and a gas station, it takes a bit of muster to walk in off the street.

But for the hungry souls who venture in (and it seems to be quite a few of you, judging from recent comments), El Puente's cocina-style cooking (and full bar) is a welcome antidote to grubby tacquerias and fast-food nachos.

With an eye toward regional home-cooking, most of El Puente's dishes are simple -- homey chilaquiles for breakfast, tostadas, carnitas, tamales and burritos along with heartier entrees like Chicken Mole, Camarones A La Diabla and weekend menudo.

Slightly more upscale are house favorites Chile Colorado, thin strips of pork in a rich red chili sauce (and also mine), along with meaty fajitas that come steaming to the table in a cloud of smoke and garlic. If you're guilding the lily, try the Mojarra Entera Frita, a whole fried fish with tortillas.

Most dishes are solid renditions, served efficiently by friendly staff. Chiles Rellenos, sadly, don't stand up to nearby Las Palmas', but El Puente steals the show with their creamy, rich refried beans -- a usually dismal side.

As an admitted newbie to the Mexican table, I'll leave final judgments to more experienced tortilla-eaters. But now, at least you know where to get a solid margarita and that bowl of elusive birria -- which by the way, is still on my list.

El Puente Cantina, 1709 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.569.0988. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

]]> First look: GG's Earth and Surf tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1613 2009-03-05T23:35:21Z 2009-03-10T04:31:32Z

Fleissner is taking her commitment to local and sustainable foods very seriously, which can make for a challenge when folks want out-of-season strawberries or shrimp to show up on the menu.

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

I'm looking forward to taking a deeper dive at the newly opened GG's Earth and Surf in downtown Santa Rosa -- the long awaited vegetarian/pescatarian eatery opened by former Lisa Hemenway collaborator Suzan Fleissner.

Fleissner is taking her commitment to local and sustainable foods very seriously, which can make for a challenge when folks want out-of-season strawberries or shrimp to show up on the menu.

The former Worth Our Weight space has been thoughtfully renovated with warm, cheerful touches and sunny decor, though the jury's still out on the legacy atrium windows that make the space feel like a giant fishbowl.

]]>

Fleissner's menu shows that she's put some serious time and thought in. Vegetarian dishes have broad appeal: bean fritters with avocado cream ($6), a tasty sweet potato soup with curried granola and yogurt ($7) or simple, seasonal salads with warm spinach and lentils.

The kitchen still seems to be getting its sea legs with the steamed clams in young garlic broth, which though a bit bland, had potential as a spring favorite.

Polenta fries are a crispy, hearty alternative to potatoes, especially with a side of aioli and dishes like Pistachio Ricotta Pancakes with Fresh Mandarin Ginger Honey ($8) or Chai-spiced french toast have BiteClub jonesing for a brunch return.

The warm crab salad with fennel and blood orange ($9) slightly missed the mark, lacking flavor, though the presentation was spot-on. I'll chalk it up to opening jitters.

Kitchen and service are still working out kinks, but there's a desire to please that's palpable. The restaurant will be open for lunch (M,W,Th,F), dinner (closed Tuesday) and Sunday brunch. Gluten-free and vegan diners will find an accommodating environment.

It's refreshing to find a commitment to seafood and vegetarian dishes with such broad appeal and mastery in the kitchen. Though there's still fine tuning to be done when it comes to seasoning and timing, GG's should be a welcome addition to the downtown dining scene.

GG's Earth and Surf Restaurant, 630 3rd St., Santa Rosa, 528.1445.]]> Mondavi cancels Taste3 tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1609 2009-03-05T03:13:30Z 2009-03-05T03:20:21Z

It's not a huge surprise, but a disappointment nonetheless, that COPIA's signature annual event, TASTE3, has been canceled for 2009. It's hard to express just what a bummer this is...but BiteClub's been on the guest list the last two years...

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2 TASTE3, has been canceled for 2009. It's hard to express just what a bummer this is...but BiteClub's been on the guest list the last two years and this convergence of writers, journalists, foodies, chefs, scientists, farmers and artists was one of the most fascinating and worthwhile culinary events of the year.

From today's press release...

Due to the unfortunate nexus of the unprecedented economic downturn and the closing of our venue, Copia, Robert Mondavi Winery has decided to take a one year hiatus from Taste³. The quality of the event is our number one priority and given these unforeseen circumstances, we believe that postponing the next Taste³ to early summer 2010 will allow us the best opportunity not only to secure the right venue but also to build the critical level of sponsor and sales support that makes Taste³ possible.

Organizers hope to get Taste3 back on track in 2010. Here's to a brighter tomorrow.

]]> Best Pancakes: Flipping out tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1595 2009-03-04T09:35:57Z 2009-03-04T09:55:03Z

Best Pancakes in Sonoma County

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Weekday mornings are a blur of sack lunches, misplaced gym clothes and races against the school bell. By definition, they're Cheerios and frozen waffle days, with an occasional overly ambitious egg sandwich tucked into a backpack. Anything involving a recipe or frying pans is, frankly, out of the question.

The jig's up on Saturday. Tiny, slippered feet pad into my bedroom at 8am with uncanny predictability and two small voices demand what's been denied for five unbearable days -- pancakes. Resistance is futile.

And more often than not, I can be strong-armed into pulling out the flour, sugar and milk to whip up a batch from scratch. Mother's guilt.

Even better, though, when someone else stands behind the grill and washes up afterwards. From Santa Rosa's greasy spoons to divine diners, there's not shortage of hotcake flippers in Wine Country. BiteClub susses out some of the best...

]]>

Lemon love: Newly re-opened after it's seasonal closure, Sonoma's Big 3 Diner elevates low-brow diner classics to spa-set grandeur. Ritzy Fairmont guests and locals jostle for weekend tables and the restaurant's signature Lemon Cottage Cheese Pancakes topped with creme fraiche. 18140 Highway 12, Sonoma, (707) 939-2410. Recipe

Big as your head: Windsor newcome SoCo Cafe serves up plate-dangling, big-as-your-head cakes that devotees swear by. Light, fluffy and drenched in butter. 8776 Lakewood Dr., Windsor, (707) 838-0451.

Totally corny: Hallie's is where Petalumans line up for breakie standards with a Latin twist. Homemade corncakes are polenta-soft inside and get a kick from a side of Cajun sausage. 125 Keller St., Petaluma,

(707) 773-1143.

The standard: There's a reason Hank's Creekside always has a crowd at the door -- the pancakes. Made from scratch (many breakfast spots use a pre-made mix), they're steamier than a romance novel (and way more satisfying). 2800 4th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 575-8839.

More pancake spots to check out:

Dierk's Parkside Cafe: 404 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, 707-573-5955

Garden Court Cafe: 13647 Arnold Dr, Glen Ellen, (707) 935-1565

Cookhouse: 327 S. A St., Santa Rosa, (707) 526-2689

Carlos' Country Kitchen: 90 W College Ave, Santa Rosa

Sam's For Play: 2630 Cleveland Ave, Santa Rosa

East West Cafe: 128 N Main St, Sebastopol and 557 Summerfield Rd., Santa Rosa

Where are your favorite pancakes? See other BiteClubbers' faves

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

BIG 3 DINER'S LEMON-COTTAGE CHEESE PANCAKES
Serving size: 8
Preparation time: 20 minutes

5 lemons -- zest and juice
6 whole eggs, separated
1 cup powered sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour (approximately)
1 pint low-fat cottage cheese
½ pound clarified butter

Mix lemon juice, lemon zest, egg yolks, cottage cheese and powdered sugar. Mix in flour. Add clarified butter. Whip egg whites to soft / medium peaks. Fold whites into batter. Cook pancakes on a greased griddle to desired firmness. Serve garnished with crème fraîche, a thinly sliced lemon twist and powdered sugar.

]]> Trattoria Lupo: Hungry like the wolf tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1573 2009-03-01T17:20:58Z 2009-03-02T17:14:42Z

Roberto is back at one of Santa Rosa's favorite Italian trattorias -- now called Trattoria Lupo.

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

Roberto is back.

Seems the popular Santa Rosa restauranteur couldn't sit by idly and watch his Italian trattoria fade into mediocrity after selling it a year or so ago. So Roberto Catania bought it back and now mans the door like the paisan he can't help but be, embracing old friends with tight hugs and sidling into crowded booths like he never left left the place.

You're either one of the family, or you soon will be.

]]> Roberto's, now renamed Trattoria Lupo in honor of Sonoma Valley scribe Jack London (lupo means 'wolf' in Italian) is the same dark, crowded, neighborhood chianti and osso buco spot it's always been. Black-clad waiters snap around the room under the watchful eye of the restaunt's affable Don.

And though Roberto probably wouldn't appreciate all the Soprano's comparisons folks can't help to make about his chummy Italian eatery, he doesn't exactly eschew the old school veal and red sauce vibe that permeates every corner of the room.

Which is not to say this is 'Mama Mia' spaghetti and meatballs fare. Roberto has pared down the menu to a managable list of classics -- Veal Saltimbocca, polenta with sausage, unparalleled gnocchi, lamb shanks and Calamari Steak Dorado among the favorites.

This isn't a fussy, 'whatever's in season' menu. Chances are if you loved the ravioli last month it will still be on the menu next month -- and consistency, predictablility and comfort always attract a crowd. There are a few daily specials, and Osso Buco (which wasn't on the menu on either of my visits) is a much-anticipated treat.

What works so well is that the food is so unexpectedly good. Not haute cuisine, not tweezer-perfect and not even dead-on with every dish, but consistently tasty. The exterior, with its 60's ranch architecture, faux-finish facade and Creamsicle orange paint, can be a barrier to entry. But inside it's cozy and pin-neat --on the weekends, jammed to within an inch of bursting at the seams.

Waiting at the tiny, seemingly tacked-on full bar at the back, gives you a few minutes to peruse the menu and watch the drama unfolding in the dining room -- families, a huge booth of gals having a well-earned night out, Roberto kissing babies and glad-handing old friends.

Best bets: Pasta and polenta are top-scorers for BiteClub. BiteClub Jr. and I nearly came to blows over a plate of cloud-like ghocchi. Veal is a signature dish, the Saltimbocca topped with mozzarella, prosciutto and a light white wine sauce. The carpaccio can't compete with (as one Yelper pointed out) Cucina Paradiso's in Petaluma, tasting more like very rare roast beef than the very sweet, clean flavor I prefer, but it's certainly still worth a try. If you do nothing else, do not miss the housemade tiramisu. Layers of booze-soaked lady fingers, espresso powder, macarpone.

Working the room obsessively, Cantania stops at each table to ask if your food's alright. If you need more wine. If you're happy. And with Santa Rosa's favorite paisan back in charge, chances are you will be.

Trattoria Lupo (formerly Roberto's), 4776 Sonoma Hwy, Santa Rosa, 707-539-0260, open Tuesday through Sunday, from 4pm to 10pm.

]]> Ghee Whiz: Ancient Organics tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1411 2009-02-25T22:51:27Z 2009-02-26T19:10:25Z

A towering, soft-spoken guy with expressive hands and a penchant for berets, Peter Malakoff spins a complex tale of the magical Indian elixir used for millennia. Not quite butter and not quite oil, ghee is the very essence of grass distilled from cow's milk into liquid gold, in his words

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

I am forever running in circles. Stressing out about something I can't remember an hour later. Huffing over every slight and feeling queasy about the hundreds of things left to do each day. And no direct sunlight, thank you.

This makes me a pretty typical "pitta" person apparently -- an Ayurvedic description of everything from my digestive habits (how personal!) to my anger management techniques. Despite such rash labels being a little earthy-crunchy for my sensibilities my new pal, ghee-maker Peter Malakoff, informs me of my diagnosis within five minutes of our meeting.

Um. Okay. I gotta wonder what else 5,000 years of collective Indian wisdom is telling him about me. I instinctively suck in my gut and start worrying if I've put on enough deodorant today.

Walking a quiet path around his rented Bolinas home (you knew we were in Bolinas), Malakoff, the founder of Ancient Organics, a Marin-based company exclusively devoted to small production ghee, plays Dharma to my Greg. We ponder the imponderables, expand our minds and explore our life paths before we get down to the business of his burgeoning butter empire. You don't talk ghee without a little back story.

A towering, soft-spoken guy with expressive hands and a penchant for berets, he spins a complex tale of the magical Indian elixir used for millennia. Not quite butter and not quite oil, ghee is the very essence of grass distilled from cow's milk into liquid gold, in his words.

In less flowery terms, it's fresh butter boiled for hours to within an inch of its life. It's used for everything from flavoring food to salving burns and improving complexions. A Swiss-Army knife of Indian condiments.
]]>

During the process of ghee-making, milk solids evaporate and what's left is a paste-like spread that can sit on your shelf - - un-refrigerated - for six months. It tastes like really good movie theater butter, meaning that uber-buttery, almost over-the-top flavor that's hard to get enough of. In a good way.

But this Indian pantry-staple is almost unheard in the west. Which really bums out Ayurvedic practioners like Malakoff who proselytize the wonders of ghee with delicious fervor.

Unlike butter, he says, ghee is actually healthful. It awakes the digestive fire of the body, penetrates deep into the tissues and helps to give balance. Unlike butter doctors (at least Ayurvedic ones) recommend it rather than eschew it. Mixing a shockingly big blob it into rice, he hands me the bowl for a taste. Mmmm. Buttery. Good. And good for you?

Consider what goes into it: Organic Straus Creamery butter from Marin. That's it, except for some powerful good vibes in the guise of six (or so) continual hours of the 'Mahamrtunjaya' mantra played during it's boiling and only made during the waxing moon (about 14 of 28 days of the month). Like many of biodynamic practices, it has everything to do with the tidal phases of the moon.

Malakoff and his assistant use a cooperative kitchen in Richmond make 1,000 to 1,500 pounds of ghee each month, give or take. The sunshine yellow containers make their way into Whole Foods and Bi-Rites around the Bay Area and ultimately around the globe to his growing fan-base.

And whether you put his ghee in organic brown rice with lentils or on top of your pancakes (which he laughingly calls "God's Realization") isn't really the point. Malakoff ultimately just wants to make you think about what you're eating. "What we eat is what we become," he tells me. Sadly, I'm probably a turkey sandwich with mayo these days. But you have to appreciate the absolute focus and belief he puts into each jar of ghee.

He sets each sends off each precious jar as if they're children he's seeing off. And in a sense they are considering the time and energy he's invested. In return, I feel an obligation to take good care of his sunny little offspring.

Even if just by smiling as I slather another spoonful on top of my morning waffle.

Ancient Organics Ghee, available as some Whole Foods or at online. Prices: 16oz,, $18.75, 32oz, $32.50. ]]> Box vs. Bottle: Can a chef tell the difference? tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1404 2009-02-25T12:34:00Z 2009-02-25T18:53:06Z

Box vs. bottle vs. jug: Can you really tell the difference

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2

No matter how you spin it, box wines are still the red-headed stepchild of the swirl and sniff crowd. The mere mention sends most serious wine drinkers into fits of laughter. Or disgust.

Which isn't totally fair. Drinkers in Australia and Europe have embraced the box. There are serious French, Italian and Australian wines being sold and drunk in this highly practical format -- high-tech sealed plastic bags that keep wine fresh for up to a month after opening.

In the US, we're still a little shy. Low-end bulk wines still dominate the box market --the pink stuff your grandpa used to foist on you at parties. But there are a few forward-thinkers, most notably Black Box (which has won numerous awards), putting some reasonably tasty wine inside cardboard boxes.

Which brings me to the big question: Are we just being snobs about the whole thing? Is the packaging influencing us more than what's actually in it? But most importantly, could trained chefs actually tell the difference between a boxed wine and a comparably-priced bottled wine in a blind test?

The answer is yes. And no.

]]> BiteClub asked several chefs and a certified sommelier to take on the challenge. The results of this very informal, not-totally-scientific survey went something like this. Five chefs politely declined*. Two agreed. The sommelier was my ringer. And I got a couple friends who know a thing or two about wine to round out the survey.

We tasted four box wines (two whites, two reds), two Sonoma County value-priced bottle wines (white, red) and a jug wine (just to make it interesting).

What become immediately clear was that most folks who know anything about wine could tell right off that the wines were "bulk wines" -- or wines that aren't from a particular appellation or vineyard and are blended with grapes from different regions. In other words, they knew these weren't cult wines with big pricetags.

The tasters also nailed the box wines at least half the time. There's a clean, almost sterile quality to them, some said. The sommelier described it as "oxygen starved". The two lower end box wines were dismissed outright, but the Black Box wines faired remarkably well.

The shocker: Almost unanimously, we liked the Black Boxes better than the bottles. Yup.

There was an approachability and a consistency of flavor. Relative complexity. A sort of grape-ish Napoleon complex, you might say -- as the underdog they tried a whole lot harder.

The next favorite (though not unanimously) was the Rhone Blend jug wine from Wine Garage in Calistoga. There's a rough, earthy quality to this wine. They fill up the jugs right in the store from pumps. It's just fun and drinkable.

Didn't show well: A value-priced (about $9.99) Sonoma County Chardonnay. Ouch. Now before you send out a vineyard lynch mob for me, consider that we were comparing apples to apples -- the bottled wines weren't some of the county's most finely crafted wines. These were value-priced, large production "grocery store" wines with blended grapes. The one I grabbed happened to be a surprise stinker.

Least favorite: Target's wine cubes. Unlike the often-quaffable $2 Chuck, these were not.

Oddly enough: Duskie Estes of Zazu suggested we try the wines in both Riedel stemware and in "rocks" glasses (bicchieri) -- a sort of casual bistro glass. It actually made a difference in mouth-feel for several of the wines. We loved the jug wine in the bicchieri, giving it a bigger, meatier quality.

So what's the take-away? Chefs tend to know their shiznit. You're not going to fool most of them with a box wine. And, uh don't lug one to their restaurants anytime soon (though if you do, they'll still charge you corkage and probably snicker at you).

But we all agreed there's a time and a place for some good box or jug wine -- everyday sips for barbecues, parties and casual get-togethers. So stop being such a snob and just drink already.

We won't judge if you hide the box though.

++++++++++++++++++++++

* Why? Chefs are notoriously difficult to cat-herd.They're busy folks. Even one of my favorite chefs stood me up. But I also suspect there was a bit of "Seriously? Box wine?" going on.

Huge thanks to: Duskie Estes of Zazu, Master Sommelier Robert Ryan of Wine Spectrum and Rick Bruno of Bruno's on Fourth - -and everyone else who played along.

Want to taste the wines?

- Black Box Sonoma County Reserve Merlot, Black Box Monterey County Chardonnay. Both around $20 (equal to four bottles).Available through Bevmo.

- Jug wines (Rhone and Bordeaux) from Calistoga's Wine Garage, $35 (equal to about 2.75 bottles). 1020 Foothill Blvd., Calistoga, (707) 942-5332

- Another great jug wine from Sonoma County (but only available on Sundays at the winery), Guadagni from Preston winery. (9282 W Dry Creek Rd, Healdsburg).
- Boisset Family Estates (owner of DeLoach) French Rabbit wines in earthquake-quit friendly packs!

]]> Niman Ranch founder won't eat the meat? tag:blog.pressdemocrat.com,2009:/biteclub//1.1400 2009-02-24T16:53:17Z 2009-02-24T17:11:45Z

A fascinating article in the Chronicle about the departure of Niman Ranch's founder from his own company was brought to my attention yesterday. As most foodies (and chefs) know, Bill Niman's sustainably and humanely raised meats were the darlings of...

BiteClubEats http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/mt_admin/mt-cp.cgi?__mode=view&blog_id=1&id=2 A fascinating article in the Chronicle about the departure of Niman Ranch's founder from his own company was brought to my attention yesterday. As most foodies (and chefs) know, Bill Niman's sustainably and humanely raised meats were the darlings of many a kitchen despite their cost.

Seems that in Niman's case, sustainability and 'doing good' couldn't ultimately make a profit and the company narrowly escaped bankruptcy by turning its holdings over to Chicago's Natural Food Holdings LLC. Niman has stepped away from the business and is now claiming that the company's standards have dropped significantly.

It's a tale that I've heard over and over and over again. I've been a huge fan of many artisan producers who, frankly, just couldn't ultimately make the business succeed financially. Ideals are lofty notions that don't always jibe with the cold, hard reality of capitalism.

It breaks my heart, just as the sale of Scharffen Berger to Hershey's broke my heart. And the loss of so many other great producers.

The good news is that there's always seems to be someone with a big idea, big hopes and big dreams ready to fill the void. I hope.

Read the Chronicle article. ]]>