Bite Club

Bite Club http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/ Anonymous? No way. Pretentious? Please. Bite Club foists a fork at everything from farm markets to four-star restaurants; taco trucks to top chefs, getting to the oooey, gooey creamy center in no-time flat. en Copyright 2009 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 12:28:06 -0800Mon, 23 Mar 2009 10:52:07 -0800Wed, 18 Mar 2009 14:15:33 -0800 http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/ http://www.rssboard.org/rss-specification Worst Thanksgiving Disaster?
Tell me yours and you could win two tickets to Kendall Jackson Chef Justin Wangler's Thanksgiving how-to November 14 at the winery. Recently featured in an 8-page spread in Better Homes and Gardens, the winery chef shoes you how to do an approachable do-ahead feast that will leave you time to socialize. Or at least keep an eye on the dog.
]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/11/worst-thanksgiving-disaster.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/11/worst-thanksgiving-disaster.html Sun, 08 Nov 2009 12:28:06 -0800 Whoopie Pies

Move over cupcakes. The darling of the pastry-set these days are Whoopie Pies, a less precious, more lunchbox-friendly marriage of cake and cream.

Last week, the New York Times broadcast the trend that purports to have its roots either in Pennsylvania's Amish Country (well known for tasty fare that can hold you through a barn-raising) or New England. No one is really sure.

The currant appeal is clearly the pie's working-class roots. Some say the name stems from the exclamation of "Whoopie!" from happy farmers who found the cream sandwiches in their lunches. Nor'easterners are also familiar with these mushy, smushy, delicious cookies stocked in corner delis and gas stations as comforting snack fare. There's also the nostalgia factor as anyone who had (or wished they had) a Little Debbie Oatmeal cream cookie stashed into their brown bag can remember.

As the Whoopie comes into its own, clever pastry chefs are leaving behind simple chocolate or vanilla cake and Crisco filling for flavors like pumpkin and fresh buttercream fillings. Kind of like what we've seen happen to cupcakes (for the better, of course).

So delight in the dunkable, dippable, finger-licking wonderful pleasures of childhood once more. You trend-setter, you.

And if you're wondering, yes, the Whoopie is a close relation of the Southern Moon Pie -- made with graham crackers and marshmallow, then covered with chocolate. Albeit a slightly simpler cousin.

Available locally at Oliver's Market in Santa Rosa.

Know where else to get a good Whoopie? Let BiteClubbers know!

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/whoopie-pies.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/whoopie-pies.html Bakery/Dessert Santa Rosa Trends Where to buy dessert where to buy Mon, 23 Mar 2009 10:52:07 -0800 Artisan Cheese Festival

Aging like a fine cheddar, Petaluma's Artisan Cheese Festival turns three this year, adding even more depth and flavor to the four-day festival of dairy deliciousness.

The annual gathering draws artisan fromagers Northern California and Oregon and their fans for a weekend of non-stop chatting and chewing about the wonders hand-crafted cheese. Which is actually pretty fascinating (and reaaaally fragrant), considering that the North Coast is where some of the country's best cheese is being made these days.

Tickets are all but sold out, though a handful remain if you're just dying to get your slice on. You can also participate a la carte, heading to one of several area restaurants hosting cheesemaker dinners on Friday night or mingling around Sunday's Artisan Cheese Marketplace (advance tickets are recommended, or you can just take your chances and show up).

BiteClub will be there for the duration, first cut to final slice, so stay tuned for updates. Meanwhile, if you're inclined to participate, here's how the weekend rolls. Get your knife and crackers ready...

- Friday Night Dine Around: Zazu, Syrah, Zin, Restaurant Eloise, Della Fattoria, Cucina Paradiso and Central Market will all host special cheese-centric dinners in honor of the festival on Friday night only. Click here for the list, as well as how to make a reservation.

- Saturday: Seminar central. Some top picks include; Strong Cheese and Stout Brews with cheese gal Sheana Davis; Traveling the Oregon Cheese Trail with David Gremmels of Rogue Creamery; the New Artisan Food Landscape with Steve Sando (Rancho Gordo), Taylor Boetticher of Fatted Calf and a host of others. More info on the seminars.

- Artisan Gala dinner with John Ash, Duskie Estes (Zazu), Josh Silvers (Syrah) and others. Buy Tickets ($170).

- Sunday: Artisan Cheese Marketplace. Eat. Drink. Eat. A wonderland for food lovers.

- Monday: Creamery Field Trips. Head out to meet up with the folks who make cheese.

JUST THE FACTS:
When: March 20-23 2009
Where: Sheraton Sonoma County Petaluma, 745 Baywood Drive, (707) 283-2888

Need to do a little pre-cheese homework?
Culture Magazine is the skin mag for cheese-philes: Informative articles and glossy close-ups that'll have you licking the pages. Alone. At night. More info: culturecheesemag.com/

Clark Wolf's American Cheeses
I've been woefully behind in talking about this amazing book by SoCo's own Clark Wolf. A funny and fascinating storyteller who's got the chops to know what he's talking about, Wolf weaves together stories of his own life along with vignettes about the cheesemakers from coast to coast. Definite required reading. Can I grow up to be you, Clark? Find out more.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/artisan-cheese-festival.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/artisan-cheese-festival.html Backyard Tourist Events events Wed, 18 Mar 2009 14:15:33 -0800 Corned Beef

Despite my Irish(ish) heritage, the annual St. Patrick's Day corned beef adventure is one that I have, so far, avoided at all costs. Like a lot of other folks, wearing green, imbibing in stout beer and Irish coffee is about as Mac-involved as I really care to be. The Irish, let's face it, aren't usually known for their culinary prowess and if we're being honest here, boiling meat within an inch of its life is not my idea of good eats.

Quaint and authentic yes. Delish? Not usually. Just pass the scones and oatmeal and we'll call it good.

But here's the thing: Corned beef is a uniquely American food steeped in history (along with pickling spices, but more on that later). It's the culinary match that could only be made in New York, the lovechild of Jewish immigrants' plentiful kosher beef brisket and Irish immigrants' love of salty, boiled meats. Throw in a little cabbage, some pickling spices and potatoes and what we think of as Boiled Dinner (or Corned Beef and Cabbage) was born. In fact, so American was this invention that Abraham Lincoln served it as his inauguration and millions still consume it as a right of spring.*

So, how to do it right?

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/corned-beef.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/corned-beef.html Recipes Where to buy recipes Mon, 16 Mar 2009 02:05:08 -0800 First Look: Rendez Vous Bistro Eager eaters are already packing downtown SR's newest French bistro, chomping to see what former Emile's Creekside chef Emile Waldteufel has up his sleeve. After an extensive overhaul, it's an amazing space dominated by a large wood bar and a sunny Left Bank vibe.The menu is tres Parisian fare: from onion soup and escargot to Steak Frites, Sole Meuniere and Boeuf Bourginon.

But stakes are high in this crowded field which includes contenders like K&L Bistro, Chloe's, Mirepoix and nearby Bistro 29 which have already proven their mettle. At first blush there's still some translation getting lost -- ho-hum frites, crackle-free creme brulee and some so-so sauces.

The good news: Service is spot-on, the location is great and with a bit of menu tightening, Rendez-Vous could end up a downtown classic, especially for late-nighters (they'll be open until midnight). The restaurant will open for morning croissants and coffee, along with a full lunch menu starting next week. 614 4th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 526-7700.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/first-look-rendez-vous-bistro.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/first-look-rendez-vous-bistro.html French Santa Rosa French Sat, 14 Mar 2009 14:41:25 -0800 Santi coming to Santa Rosa

Santi coming to Santa Rosa
BiteClub got it straight from Santi owner Doug Swett that a lease is in the works for the Geyserville Restaurant to move lock, stock and barrel to Fountaingrove Village next fall. The popular Italian trattoria will neighbor Traverso's, leaving behind it's casual pizzeria sibling, Diavola, up north. Swett plans to keep his regional Italian menu and chef, Liza Hinman, but is looking forward to daily lunches and later nights at the new location on Stagecoach Road.

Smokin' in Windsor
Chef Rudy Mihal of Odyssey Restaurant is thinking ribs and brisket. While working for Chef Daniel Boulud a few years ago, Mihal tells BiteClub that he used to spend his off days working with an old Southern BBQ maestro. He's bringing that 'q' love to his Windsor restaurant, smoking up pulled pork and braised greens while keeping many of his menu classics. A new project in the works? "I'm just doing the stuff I love for possible future endeavors." 426 Emily Rose Cir., Windsor, (707) 836-7600.

Bistro 29 changing owners?
When "Change of Ownership" sign went up last week, BiteClub called to find out what's up with the year-old French Bistro in downtown Santa Rosa. Never fear, your buckwheat crepes are safe. Chef Brian says all is well and that he and his wife are merely becoming a corporation, hence the public notice. The couple are continuing their 3-course dinners for $29. 620 5th St., Santa Rosa, (707) 546-2929. ]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/santi-coming-to-santa-rosa.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/santi-coming-to-santa-rosa.html gossip Fri, 13 Mar 2009 09:24:01 -0800 Whiskey A Go-Go

Tell me what you drink and I'll tell you what you are -- or at least what you think you are, to rip off the sentiments of Brilliant Savarin. And though we may drink for the very purpose of forgetting, at least for a few hours what we are, our spirits of choice are like a loudspeaker to the soul.

Take whiskey, if you dare. At its core, this ancient mash is little more than distilled beer. The very essence of humble grains, whiskey (or Bourbon or Scotch as it's also known), is the beverage of fathers, uncles and tweedy English professors. Not the Junior League.

Which may be exactly why it holds such a fascination. Anything but the sweet and syrupy-sippers so easily tippled from a martini glass, whiskies are is contemplative beverages that require a bit of reflection to enjoy properly. Properly. Guzzling it backstage is an entirely different beast.

Serious whiskey drinkers appreciate their beverage on the rocks (with ice) or with a slight dillution of water to release their aroma and, well, not leave you choking on the fumes. With proofs ranging from 80 to 110 (and more), it's a prudent way to enjoy.

But aside from Jack and Cokes, most of us aren't real clear on exactly what we're drinking.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/whiskey-a-go-go.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/whiskey-a-go-go.html Recipes Santa Rosa Where to buy Wine Bar/Cocktails cocktails Wed, 11 Mar 2009 23:46:45 -0800 El Puente Cantina

Number 42 on my ongoing must-eat list: birria, a Mexican meat stew usually made with lamb or goat. Along with pozole and menudo, it's one-dish comfort food that attracts the same kind of dedicated followers you find face-first in a bowl of pho or homemade chicken noodle soup.

One of a handful of restaurants that reliably serve up this homey standard, along with an impressive list of cantina classics, is the unfortunately-located El Puente Cantina on Santa Rosa Ave. Backed by a freeway off-ramp and wedged next to Denny's and a gas station, it takes a bit of muster to walk in off the street.

But for the hungry souls who venture in (and it seems to be quite a few of you, judging from recent comments), El Puente's cocina-style cooking (and full bar) is a welcome antidote to grubby tacquerias and fast-food nachos.

With an eye toward regional home-cooking, most of El Puente's dishes are simple -- homey chilaquiles for breakfast, tostadas, carnitas, tamales and burritos along with heartier entrees like Chicken Mole, Camarones A La Diabla and weekend menudo.

Slightly more upscale are house favorites Chile Colorado, thin strips of pork in a rich red chili sauce (and also mine), along with meaty fajitas that come steaming to the table in a cloud of smoke and garlic. If you're guilding the lily, try the Mojarra Entera Frita, a whole fried fish with tortillas.

Most dishes are solid renditions, served efficiently by friendly staff. Chiles Rellenos, sadly, don't stand up to nearby Las Palmas', but El Puente steals the show with their creamy, rich refried beans -- a usually dismal side.

As an admitted newbie to the Mexican table, I'll leave final judgments to more experienced tortilla-eaters. But now, at least you know where to get a solid margarita and that bowl of elusive birria -- which by the way, is still on my list.

El Puente Cantina, 1709 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.569.0988. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/el-puente-cantina.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/el-puente-cantina.html Mexican Mexican Tue, 10 Mar 2009 17:08:42 -0800 First look: GG's Earth and Surf

I'm looking forward to taking a deeper dive at the newly opened GG's Earth and Surf in downtown Santa Rosa -- the long awaited vegetarian/pescatarian eatery opened by former Lisa Hemenway collaborator Suzan Fleissner.

Fleissner is taking her commitment to local and sustainable foods very seriously, which can make for a challenge when folks want out-of-season strawberries or shrimp to show up on the menu.

The former Worth Our Weight space has been thoughtfully renovated with warm, cheerful touches and sunny decor, though the jury's still out on the legacy atrium windows that make the space feel like a giant fishbowl.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/first-look-ggs-earth-and-surf.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/first-look-ggs-earth-and-surf.html Santa Rosa Seafood Slow Food Vegan/Vegetarian seafood Vegan/vegetarian Thu, 05 Mar 2009 15:35:21 -0800 Mondavi cancels Taste3 TASTE3, has been canceled for 2009. It's hard to express just what a bummer this is...but BiteClub's been on the guest list the last two years and this convergence of writers, journalists, foodies, chefs, scientists, farmers and artists was one of the most fascinating and worthwhile culinary events of the year.

From today's press release...

Due to the unfortunate nexus of the unprecedented economic downturn and the closing of our venue, Copia, Robert Mondavi Winery has decided to take a one year hiatus from Taste³. The quality of the event is our number one priority and given these unforeseen circumstances, we believe that postponing the next Taste³ to early summer 2010 will allow us the best opportunity not only to secure the right venue but also to build the critical level of sponsor and sales support that makes Taste³ possible.

Organizers hope to get Taste3 back on track in 2010. Here's to a brighter tomorrow.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/mondavi-cancels-taste3.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/mondavi-cancels-taste3.html Wed, 04 Mar 2009 19:13:30 -0800 Best Pancakes: Flipping out

Weekday mornings are a blur of sack lunches, misplaced gym clothes and races against the school bell. By definition, they're Cheerios and frozen waffle days, with an occasional overly ambitious egg sandwich tucked into a backpack. Anything involving a recipe or frying pans is, frankly, out of the question.

The jig's up on Saturday. Tiny, slippered feet pad into my bedroom at 8am with uncanny predictability and two small voices demand what's been denied for five unbearable days -- pancakes. Resistance is futile.

And more often than not, I can be strong-armed into pulling out the flour, sugar and milk to whip up a batch from scratch. Mother's guilt.

Even better, though, when someone else stands behind the grill and washes up afterwards. From Santa Rosa's greasy spoons to divine diners, there's not shortage of hotcake flippers in Wine Country. BiteClub susses out some of the best...

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/best-pancakes-flipping-out.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/best-pancakes-flipping-out.html Brunch/Breakfast Recipes breakfast brunch where to buy Wed, 04 Mar 2009 01:35:57 -0800 Trattoria Lupo: Hungry like the wolf

Roberto is back.

Seems the popular Santa Rosa restauranteur couldn't sit by idly and watch his Italian trattoria fade into mediocrity after selling it a year or so ago. So Roberto Catania bought it back and now mans the door like the paisan he can't help but be, embracing old friends with tight hugs and sidling into crowded booths like he never left left the place.

You're either one of the family, or you soon will be.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/trattoria-lupo-hungry-like-the-wolf.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/03/trattoria-lupo-hungry-like-the-wolf.html Italian Santa Rosa Italian Sun, 01 Mar 2009 09:20:58 -0800 Ghee Whiz: Ancient Organics

I am forever running in circles. Stressing out about something I can't remember an hour later. Huffing over every slight and feeling queasy about the hundreds of things left to do each day. And no direct sunlight, thank you.

This makes me a pretty typical "pitta" person apparently -- an Ayurvedic description of everything from my digestive habits (how personal!) to my anger management techniques. Despite such rash labels being a little earthy-crunchy for my sensibilities my new pal, ghee-maker Peter Malakoff, informs me of my diagnosis within five minutes of our meeting.

Um. Okay. I gotta wonder what else 5,000 years of collective Indian wisdom is telling him about me. I instinctively suck in my gut and start worrying if I've put on enough deodorant today.

Walking a quiet path around his rented Bolinas home (you knew we were in Bolinas), Malakoff, the founder of Ancient Organics, a Marin-based company exclusively devoted to small production ghee, plays Dharma to my Greg. We ponder the imponderables, expand our minds and explore our life paths before we get down to the business of his burgeoning butter empire. You don't talk ghee without a little back story.

A towering, soft-spoken guy with expressive hands and a penchant for berets, he spins a complex tale of the magical Indian elixir used for millennia. Not quite butter and not quite oil, ghee is the very essence of grass distilled from cow's milk into liquid gold, in his words.

In less flowery terms, it's fresh butter boiled for hours to within an inch of its life. It's used for everything from flavoring food to salving burns and improving complexions. A Swiss-Army knife of Indian condiments.
]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/02/ghee-whiz-ancient-organics.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/02/ghee-whiz-ancient-organics.html local purveyors where to buy Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:51:27 -0800 Box vs. Bottle: Can a chef tell the difference?

No matter how you spin it, box wines are still the red-headed stepchild of the swirl and sniff crowd. The mere mention sends most serious wine drinkers into fits of laughter. Or disgust.

Which isn't totally fair. Drinkers in Australia and Europe have embraced the box. There are serious French, Italian and Australian wines being sold and drunk in this highly practical format -- high-tech sealed plastic bags that keep wine fresh for up to a month after opening.

In the US, we're still a little shy. Low-end bulk wines still dominate the box market --the pink stuff your grandpa used to foist on you at parties. But there are a few forward-thinkers, most notably Black Box (which has won numerous awards), putting some reasonably tasty wine inside cardboard boxes.

Which brings me to the big question: Are we just being snobs about the whole thing? Is the packaging influencing us more than what's actually in it? But most importantly, could trained chefs actually tell the difference between a boxed wine and a comparably-priced bottled wine in a blind test?

The answer is yes. And no.

]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/02/box-vs-bottle-can-a-chef-tell-the-difference.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/02/box-vs-bottle-can-a-chef-tell-the-difference.html wine Wed, 25 Feb 2009 04:34:00 -0800 Niman Ranch founder won't eat the meat? A fascinating article in the Chronicle about the departure of Niman Ranch's founder from his own company was brought to my attention yesterday. As most foodies (and chefs) know, Bill Niman's sustainably and humanely raised meats were the darlings of many a kitchen despite their cost.

Seems that in Niman's case, sustainability and 'doing good' couldn't ultimately make a profit and the company narrowly escaped bankruptcy by turning its holdings over to Chicago's Natural Food Holdings LLC. Niman has stepped away from the business and is now claiming that the company's standards have dropped significantly.

It's a tale that I've heard over and over and over again. I've been a huge fan of many artisan producers who, frankly, just couldn't ultimately make the business succeed financially. Ideals are lofty notions that don't always jibe with the cold, hard reality of capitalism.

It breaks my heart, just as the sale of Scharffen Berger to Hershey's broke my heart. And the loss of so many other great producers.

The good news is that there's always seems to be someone with a big idea, big hopes and big dreams ready to fill the void. I hope.

Read the Chronicle article. ]]> http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/02/niman-ranch-founder-wont-eat-the-meat.html http://blog.pressdemocrat.com/biteclub/2009/02/niman-ranch-founder-wont-eat-the-meat.html Tue, 24 Feb 2009 08:53:17 -0800