Adventures in an Odyssey - Day 6 - Bismarck, N.D. to Detroit Lakes, Minn - 243 miles
The last time I was in Bismarck, N.D. was during the summer of 1989. I arrived determined to hop a freight car. This had been one of my ambitions, and I had finally reached the time and place in life to give it a try.
At the time, I was on another extended odyssey through the nation, although without a car. In fact, all I had in the world was contained in one small black backpack. Being so possession-free was liberating, I remind myself now. This was my "Equinox of youth tour," in recognition of my having turned 29 and having reached a restless stage in life and career.
After having visited a friend in Duluth, Minn., I hitchhiked across Minnesota and half of North Dakota. I remember my last ride was with a man about my age who had just gotten out of the service and was driving to Oregon in a pickup loaded down with everything he owned. He was on his way to marry his girlfriend and had made his own suit for the wedding.
He thought I was crazy as he dropped me off late one evening near the rail station in Bismarck, and we parted ways. We exchanged addresses, but I lost his when my backpack was stolen a month later in San Francisco. He was a nice guy. It would have been nice to find out how things turned out for him.
He would have been amused that I indeed ended up riding a rail car, but it was not quite the experience I had envisoned. These things never are. As it turned out, that area was one of the major rail hubs of the nation, as I had been told. But the hub is not in Bismarck. "You gotta go to Mandan," some guy at the rail station told me that night.
"How do I get there," I asked.
"You can either get back on the highway and head west, or you can follow the tracks until you cross the river. You can't miss it."
Given my limited options, I set off down the tracks.
It so happens that near Bismarck is Fort Abraham Lincoln, where Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer and the 7th Calvary rode out on their way to Little Big Horn. That is to say this area has a rich history of ill-fated expeditions, of which mine was one.
Following the tracks was a fine idea until the surroundings grew darker, the banks on each side grew steeper and I started to get farther from any noise or lights. And then I came to "the river," that is the Missouri River. The tracks crossed the Missouri via an expansive tressel which, I was to discover, didn't have a walk way on either side.
As turning back was no option given the late hour, I began to cross that long stretch of dark tracks, carefully stepping on each creosote-soaked rail tie while keeping a close eye on the long drop to black water below. As I recall, there were metal bars - part of the tressel - to hold onto for extra security, but it slowed my progress.
As these things happen, I was about half way across when I first heard the train whistle - not from behind me a la "Stand By Me," but coming from ahead of me. My heart raced as I picked up speed, stepping on each tie with care but haste bordering on panic. Again the whistle blew, this time seeming louder.
Soon I was sprinting as much as I dared, knowing there was no room for me and a train on this tressel. It was hard to know which of my options presented the most risk - running too fast or not fast enough. This was going to be close.
I held my breath the last 20 feet and, heralded by one more blast of the whistle, I reached the far side of the river and descended the rocky slope with a landslide. Sweat poured from my brow.
As I sucked air, I waited to hear a roar on the tracks above me, but nothing happened. A short while later the whistle blew again, but still no train.
I went back up the bank and continued my journey. A few hundred yards farther, the track took a slow, wide turn around the bend and when I completed the turn, there was the train, sitting on the tracks, not moving, amid dozens of other trains within the great Mandan freight yard.
At that point, it was about 2 a.m and given I could not find a car ready to roll West (the biggest challenge in catching a freight train at night is figuring out which end of those endless lines of cars has the engine, if there's one to be found at all) I settled down atop a large stack of rail ties where I couldn't be seen and fell asleep.
Then it started to rain.
The quick end to this story is that I finally caught a rail car, a "grainer," heading west. These have small platforms on each end that will support a rider, but riders are pretty easy to spot. Open box cars just weren't to be found, so I rode this grainer for about 20 miles before it stopped and showed not signs of moving on.
Wet, cold, sleepy and hungry, I hopped off, made my way back to the highway and, in the middle of a downpour, caught a ride with a guy driving a bakery truck who drove me as far as New Salem, home of Lucy, the world's largest fiberglass holstein.
There I spotted a Greyhound bus sign at a service station, a sight so glorious to me that to this day I own a Greyhound sign of my own.
How do we begin to explain these kinds of misadventures to our kids especially when we don't entirely understand ourselves how we got into them in the first place? I don't know. But I chose to keep my past adventures mostly to myself as we cruised past Lucy the cow and Mandan and finally crossed the Missouri River. Off in the distance I could see the dark tressel, looking no more welcoming than it was 20 years earlier.
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do," Mark Twain once wrote. "So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
Yes, there are even adventures to be had in places like Bismarck, North Dakota, even if they're ones you would prefer to keep to yourself.
By mid-afternoon, we reached Detroit Lakes, where the wedding party, family and friends had been invited to spend the day by Pelican Lake. The family of my brother-in-law's fiance, Heather, had a place there. We spent the afternoon swimming, fishing and swatting mosquitos. It was a true Midwest experience.
I thought it was remarkable that when we pulled up we had traveled just two miles shy of 2,000 miles at that point. Not everyone I met that day was as impressed with this fact, but I told them anyway.
They usually resulted in an exchange of travel stories, a great ice-breaker for weddings. Traveling is America's great common denominator - we've all got a tale.
- Paul Gullixson
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